Murshidabad: A Step Back in Time to Bengal’s Glorious Past

Murshidabad, a city in West Bengal, India, practically oozes history. Once the capital of Bengal before the British Raj, it holds immense significance.  In 1757, the Battle of Plassey fought here, marked a turning point in Indian history, leading to British rule.

Fast forward to March 3rd, 2024. We embarked on our Murshidabad adventure! Our chariot? The aptly named Hazarduari Express chugged out of Barrackpore station at 7:24 am and delivered us to Murshidabad by 10:20 am. (For those following along at home, there are other train options from Kolkata, easily found with a quick online search).

Our home for the trip was the Jalshabi Resort, nestled on the banks of the majestic Bhagirathi River. The clean rooms boasted hanging balconies and windows, perfect for unwinding and soaking in the hypnotic flow of the river. After a delightful lunch and a well-deserved rest, we were ready to delve into the city’s historical heart!

Facing the “Destroyer of the World”: Jahan Kosha Cannon

Standing guard in Murshidabad is the aptly named Jahan Kosha Cannon, literally translating to “destroyer of the world.” This impressive piece of artillery was brought here by Nawab Murshid Quli Khan when he shifted the capital from Dhaka. Imagine the power it symbolized!

At a staggering five and a half meters long and weighing over seven tons, the Jahan Kosha is a true engineering marvel. Crafted from a unique eight-metal alloy (octametal), it stands as a testament to the era’s metallurgical prowess.  Interestingly, firing this behemoth required a whopping 17 kilograms of gunpowder! Thankfully, its reign of terror is over, and today, the cannon remains remarkably rust-free, a testament to the quality of its construction.  The narrative woven into its genesis only deepens the enigma. The legendary Janardan Karmakar, a famed Bengali weapon maker from Dhaka, is credited with building this marvel.

A Multipurpose Marvel: Katra Mosque

Our next stop was the awe-inspiring Katra Mosque. Its twin minarets, piercing the sky like watchful giants, were the first things to grab our attention.  But these weren’t just decorative; the strategically placed holes at their tops hinted at a more defensive past, where they served as gun mounts.

The name itself, “Katra,” holds a fascinating clue. It translates to “market,” and indeed, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan established a bustling bazaar right beside the mosque.  While the market’s offerings have transformed over time, with vegetables and a few other essentials now taking centre stage, its legacy lives on.

Katra Mosque stands out from the crowd with its unique architectural features. Unlike traditional mosques, it rests on a high platform, almost like a grand stage.  Surrounding it are numerous smaller houses, adding to the unique charm.  The main courtyard, or “chattal,” boasts a captivating blend of textures.  While terracotta dominates the landscape, a central section paved with black stone creates a striking, straight pathway leading from the stairs to the mosque’s entrance.  This black stone path is further enhanced by rows of square pits, each perfectly sized for a single worshiper seeking a peaceful place for prayer.

Graceful domes crown the brick-built mosque, serving not just as aesthetic elements but also as designated spaces for Qur’an reciters of the past. Lush greenery completes the picture, with beautifully maintained trees adding a touch of serenity to the entire complex.

But the story doesn’t end there.  A fascinating historical tidbit lies beneath the eastern staircase.  Here, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan chose his final resting place.  His reason for this unconventional location is quite moving – he desired the dust from the feet of worshippers to fall upon his grave, and for the sounds of Qur’anic recitation to forever fill his ears, ensuring his soul’s peace in the afterlife.

A Story Etched in Stone: The Fouti Mosque

Our exploration of Murshidabad’s architectural marvels led us to the intriguing Fouti Mosque, its very name whispering tales of a past left unfinished.  Construction began in 1739 under the reign of Nawab Sarfaraz Khan, grandson of the illustrious Murshid Quli Khan.  Sarfaraz Khan envisioned this mosque as a lasting legacy, a monument to his era as Nawab.

However, ambition clashed with destiny. A conflict arose between Sarfaraz Khan and Alivardi Khan over the coveted position of Nawab. This clash culminated in the Battle of Giriya, where Sarfaraz Khan tragically lost his life.  With his demise, the mosque’s construction ground to a halt, forever frozen in time.

The remnants stand today as a poignant reminder of what could have been.  Originally planned to have five domes, only the groundwork for one was completed.  Even the two constructed domes eventually crumbled, leaving behind a testament to the passage of time and the fragility of human plans.  The mosque itself, known as “Fouti Masjid” or “Incomplete Mosque,” bears the weight of its unfinished story.  Years of neglect have taken their toll, leaving the structure in a state of disrepair.

Despite its incomplete state, the Fouti Mosque holds a unique charm. It stands as a silent sentinel, whispering tales of ambition, conflict, and the impermanence of power.  It’s a reminder that even the grandest plans can be waylaid by the twists of fate.

A Nighttime Gem: The Hazarduari by Moonlight

Our Murshidabad adventure wasn’t confined to historical sites. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in fiery hues, we embarked on a delightful journey – a sunset cruise on the majestic Bhagirathi River.  Our vessel? The resort’s very own launch. Armed with steaming cups of coffee and delectable snacks, we settled back, ready to be mesmerized by the unfolding beauty.

The gentle caress of the cool evening breeze and the rhythmic lapping of water against the launch lulled us into a state of tranquillity. We glided upstream, the fading sunlight casting a warm glow on the surrounding landscape. Reaching the quaint town of Ziaganj on the riverbank, we turned back, eager to witness a sight that promised to be truly magical.

And magical it was! As darkness descended, the magnificent Hazarduari Palace emerged from the shadows, bathed in the soft luminescence of its nighttime illumination. It was a scene fit for a postcard, a timeless tableau that etched itself onto our memories.  Standing there, on the gentle waters of the Bhagirathi, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe for the bygone era this magnificent palace represented.

A Haven of History: Unveiling Kathgola Garden

The next day, eager to delve deeper into Murshidabad’s history, we embarked on a fascinating exploration of Kathgola Garden. Nestled just four kilometres north of the majestic Hazarduari Palace lies Kathgola Garden, a place steeped in history and intrigue.  A grand Nawabi gate marks the entrance, beckoning visitors into a world seemingly untouched by time. As you step inside, an east-west road stretches before you, some believing it was once lined with elegant wooden structures – the very reason behind the name “Kathgola,” which translates to “wooden lane” according to some accounts.

Others believe the name originates from the cultivation of a specific flower called “Kathgolap” which flourished here in abundance during the Nawabi era.  History buffs will be delighted to learn that the land was originally purchased from the Nawab by four enterprising Bargi brothers – Lakshmi Path, Jaga Path, Mahi Path, and Dhana Path – for a mere twelve hundred rupees.

Their vision for Kathgola Garden was truly grand.  They envisioned a sprawling complex encompassing a magnificent Jain temple, a well-appointed palace, and even a zoo for exotic creatures.  Adding to the mystique, whispers of a secret tunnel leading to Jagat Seth’s house via the Bhagirathi River continue to intrigue visitors.

Time has undoubtedly left its mark on Kathgola Garden.  A lone, century-old tree stands tall, a silent witness to the passage of years.  Today, the descendants of Lakshmipat Singh Duggar, Siddharth and Sanjay Singh, diligently oversee the entire area.

A serene pond graces the front of the palace, its ghats adorned with intricate carvings.  Legend has it that when fish perished in this very pond, the Nawabs commissioned memorials to honour their memory.  This unique practice speaks volumes about the respect for all living creatures during that era.

Within the garden lies the Adinath Jain Temple, a breathtaking structure crafted from pristine white stone.  For a truly immersive experience, a boat ride on the water body in front of the temple offers a tranquil escape. We even stumbled upon a charming, albeit small, zoo within the complex.

A Glimpse into Opulence: The Jagat Seth Museum

As we exited Kathgola Garden and embarked on our journey towards Nasipur Rajbari, we encountered the Jagat Seth Museum.  Photography is strictly prohibited within its walls, but the museum itself holds immense historical significance.  Established in 1980 within Jagat Seth’s former residence, it houses a treasure trove of artefacts – photographs that capture the lives of the Jagat Seth family, coins minted during their era, an array of weaponry, and even exquisite clothing, including priceless Banarasi sarees embellished with gold and silver threads.

Opulence by the River: Unveiling Nashipur Rajbari

Our historical odyssey wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the magnificent Nashipur Rajbari. Nestled right beside the older palace built by Raja Devi Singh, this architectural gem stands as a testament to the opulence of the Nashipur royal family.

The current palace, a vision brought to life by Raja Kirti Chandra Singh Bahadur in 1865, served as the court of the infamous Raja Devi Singh during British rule.  While some may know him as a strict tax collector, his legacy extends far beyond that title.

Today, the Nashipur Rajbari has been transformed into a captivating museum.  The museum’s collection boasts a treasure trove of the royal family’s personal belongings, offering a glimpse into their lives and lifestyles.

History buffs will be particularly enthralled by the collection of firmans (royal decrees) and legal documents related to tax collection during that era.  These documents provide a fascinating window into the administrative practices of the time.

And that’s not all!  The palace also houses the Ramachandra Temple, one of the largest temples in the entire Murshidabad district.  This architectural marvel adds another layer of cultural significance to the Nashipur Rajbari experience.

A Silent Legacy: The Jafarganj Cemetery

Our exploration of Murshidabad’s historical sites led us to the Jafarganj Cemetery, a place where whispers of the past hang heavy in the air.  This sprawling burial ground, encompassing a vast 3.51 acres, serves as the final resting place for a significant figure in Bengal’s history – Mir Jafar.

Mir Jafar himself commissioned the construction of the cemetery, and here he lies alongside numerous members of his family.  While the tombs themselves may not be as ornate as some other Mughal structures, they hold a quiet dignity, a sombre reminder of the passage of time and the transience of power.

Walking through the Jafarganj Cemetery is a contemplative experience.  Each headstone tells a story, a silent testament to the lives lived and legacies left behind.  History buffs will find themselves particularly intrigued, and for everyone else, it’s a thought-provoking reminder of the cyclical nature of life and power.

A Thousand Doors to History: Unveiling the Hazarduari Palace

Our Murshidabad adventure wouldn’t have been complete without witnessing the crown jewel of the city – the awe-inspiring Hazarduari Palace.  Sprawling majestically across 41 acres, this architectural marvel was the brainchild of Nawab Nazim Humayun Jah.  The foundation stone was laid in 1829, and the palace rose under the meticulous guidance of Duncan Macleod.

Stepping into the Hazarduari Palace is like stepping into a bygone era.  European architectural influences dominate the design, creating a structure that is both impressive and elegant.  But the name itself holds the key to one of its most intriguing features – “Hazar Duari” translates to “Thousand Doors.”  While the actual number is closer to 800, the strategic inclusion of numerous “fake doors” adds another layer of mystique.  Imagine the confusion it would have caused any potential intruders!

The palace itself was designed to be a self-contained world.  The upper floors housed the royal family’s living quarters, with separate spaces for the Nawabs and Begums.  The second floor boasted a grand Durbar Hall, a well-stocked library, and inviting guest rooms, perfect for hosting dignitaries.  The ground floor served more practical purposes, housing various office spaces and even a dedicated car parking area – quite ahead of its time!

Today, the Hazarduari Palace stands not just as a testament to a glorious past but also as a centre for historical preservation.  Under the watchful eye of the Archaeological Survey of India, a museum has been established within its walls.  Here, visitors can delve deeper into Murshidabad’s rich history and get a glimpse into the lives of the Nawabs who once called this magnificent palace home.

A Monumental Legacy: The Nizamat Imambara

Standing tall just opposite the majestic Hazarduari Palace is the Nizamat Imambara, a structure that holds immense historical and religious significance.  This Shia Muslim congregation hall isn’t just the largest in West Bengal, but in all of India, making it a true landmark.

The story of the Nizamat Imambara is one of resilience.  Originally built in wood by Nawab Sirajuddaula, it tragically succumbed to a devastating fire in 1846.  Undeterred, Nawab Mansur Ali Faradun Jah commissioned its reconstruction in 1848.  The new structure, built at a cost of approximately 7 lakh rupees, stands as a testament to his dedication and the enduring importance of the Imambara.

The imposing structure stretches an impressive 680 feet in length and boasts a unique tripartite design.  The central section houses the “Madina Mosque,” while flanking buildings on either side add to the grandeur.  On the western side lies a two-storied mosque, perfect for prayer and contemplation.  The eastern side features a “Nahvat Khana,” a ceremonial space traditionally used for music and announcements.

The Nizamat Imambara’s allure lies not just in its sheer size but also in its captivating architecture.  A visit here is a chance to step back in time and immerse yourself in the rich cultural heritage of Murshidabad.  Its historical importance is undeniable, serving as a silent witness to the city’s past and a vibrant centre for the Shia Muslim community even today.

A Fond Farewell to Murshidabad

As the 5:20 pm sun cast long shadows across Murshidabad, we boarded the Hazarduari Express, a fitting end to our historical adventure.  The rhythmic clickety-clack of the train lulled us into a state of comfortable contentment as we reminisced about the bygone era we had just witnessed.

Reaching Barrackpore at 8:42 pm, we disembarked with hearts brimming with memories.  Murshidabad had captivated us with its architectural marvels, its delectable cuisine, and most importantly, the warmth of its people.  From the intricate carvings on the mosque walls to the serene beauty of the Bhagirathi River at dusk, every sight, sound, and taste had woven itself into the tapestry of our experience.

This trip wasn’t just about ticking places off a list; it was a journey through time, a chance to connect with the rich tapestry of Bengal’s history.  As we bid adieu to Murshidabad, we carried with us a newfound appreciation for this city’s glorious past and the promise to return someday, eager to explore its hidden corners and uncover even more stories waiting to be told.

We hope this glimpse into our Murshidabad adventure has inspired you to embark on your historical expedition.  So, pack your bags, dust off your walking shoes, and get ready to be enchanted by this city where time seems to stand still.