Varanasi: Where Life and Death Intertwined in a Sacred Symphony

On August 16th, 2023, we embarked on a journey to Varanasi: where life and death intertwined in a sacred symphony. Varanasi is one of the nation’s foremost pilgrimage destinations. Our voyage was set in motion by the Howrah-Amritsar mail (13005 UP and 13006 DN). It was an apt choice for a round trip from Kolkata to Varanasi.

Exploring Varanasi’s Soul

Nestled on the western banks of the Ganges River, Varanasi is a city that exudes spirituality and antiquity. It’s flanked by the Varuna and Assi rivers, a unique geographic blessing that befits its name. Varanasi is also known as Kashi, a word rooted in the Vedas and signifying “shining.” With a history dating back to time immemorial, Varanasi holds the distinction of being India’s oldest continuously inhabited city, often referred to as the “City of Lights.”

The city is lovingly called Banaras, and ancient lore referred to it as Moksh Nagri, the “City of Liberation.” Many Hindus aspire to complete their earthly journey here, seeking the immediate salvation they believe Varanasi can offer.

Varanasi’s Allure

Varanasi is a tapestry woven with threads of spirituality, history, and culture. The city’s spiritual epicentre is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, a shrine steeped in historical significance and home to countless tales of centuries gone by. This Temple is the touchstone of Varanasi’s allure.

As the sun sets over the holy city, the Ganga Aarti unfolds at Dashashwamedh Ghat, an enchanting spectacle that captivates the soul. But Varanasi offers much more. Hindus believe that cremation in Varanasi leads to salvation, and the ever-burning pyres on the cremation ghats add to the city’s mystique. The narrow lanes surrounding Kashi Vishwanath Temple promise a unique visual experience, where time seems to have paused.

As a city of temples, Varanasi hosts several noteworthy ones. From silk sarees and Banarasi paan to the delectable Banarasi Chai, the city’s allure also extends to its culinary and artisanal delights.

You can click on this link to view the map of Varanasi.

The Resilience of Kashi Vishwanath Temple

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, an emblem of spiritual resilience, has endured numerous cycles of destruction and rebirth throughout history. Its story, marred by phases of demolition and resurrection, stands as a testament to its unwavering sanctity.

• First Demolition: In 1194, the aftermath of the Battle of Asani saw Qutubuddin Aibak’s forces capture Varanasi. It led to the destruction of the Shiva Temple, among others.
• First Reconstruction: In 1296, under Iltutmish’s reign, the Hindu community rallied to resurrect the Temple, rekindling its sacred presence.
• Second Demolition: Between 1436 and 1458, during Mahmud Sharqi’s rule, Varanasi’s Shiva Temple faced further demolition.
• Second Reconstruction: Almost 125 years later, Raja Todarmal’s son, Gobardhan Das, championed the Temple’s revival after securing victory in the Battle of Munger.
• Third Demolition: In 1669, Emperor Aurangzeb’s order led to the demolition of many Temples, including Varanasi’s Shiva Temple, replaced by the Gyanvapi Mosque.
• Third Reconstruction: Maharani Ahilya Bai Holkar, a visionary leader, revitalized the Temple in 1780, forging the present-day Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

Moreover, in 1835, Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Punjab generously contributed 1000 kg of gold to sheathe the Temple’s dome, adding to its grandeur. Recent endeavours led by Prime Minister Narendra Modi have enhanced the Temple’s aesthetics, offering modern facilities to devotees.

Temple Visit Tips and Ganga Aarti

The best time to visit Varanasi is during the winter months when the city is a treasure trove of outdoor sights. From Guru Purnima to Raksha Bandhan, the Temple experiences its holiest footfalls, with an influx of devoted pilgrims.

Strict security measures are in place upon entering the Temple, prohibiting items like cell phones, cameras, and even metal-buckled belts. Storage lockers are conveniently available for such belongings. The Temple opens its doors from 2:30 AM to 11:00 PM, ensuring multiple darshan timings.

The Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat is an evening spectacle. Amidst the Ganges, the ritual’s synchrony is a breathtaking experience, as lamps flicker and prayers fill the air.

The Enchanting Ghats of Varanasi

Varanasi’s Ghats, aligned on the western banks of the Ganges, come alive with the first rays of dawn. With 84 Ghats in total, each has a unique story to tell. Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are reserved for cremations. To embrace the spiritual aura, rent a boat for an enriching experience or take a luxurious cruise offering refreshments and a guided journey through all 84 Ghats.

Varanasi’s Temples: Portals to the Divine

Varanasi, a spiritual haven, hosts a constellation of Temples that beckon millions of pilgrims. Nine of these, each with their unique charm, beckon seekers of divinity:

• Kashi Vishwanath Temple: The “Golden Temple” dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a pivotal shrine for Shiva devotees. It exudes a spiritual ambience and holds a wealth of rituals and history.
• Annapurna Devi Temple: Next to Kashi Vishwanath Temple, it’s the sacred adobe to Goddess Annapurna, revered for sustenance and well-being.
• Durga Temple: The Monkey Temple, an architectural gem built in the 18th century, is an explosion of red and ochre. The Temple’s surroundings house shrines to various deities.
• Tulsi Manas Temple: A serene sanctuary for meditation and reflection, it pays tribute to Lord Rama and is where Saint Tulsidas composed Ramcharitmanas.
• Bharat Mata Temple: Located at Mahatma Gandhi Kashi Vidyapith campus, it’s a unique shrine that celebrates India’s heritage and unity.
• Sankat Mochan Mandir: Located on the Ganges’ banks, it’s a revered pilgrimage site dedicated to Lord Hanuman, where devotees seek strength, devotion, and courage.
• New Vishwanath Temple (Birla Temple): A 20th-century architectural masterpiece dedicated to Lord Shiva, blending tradition and modernity for a serene atmosphere.
• Kal Bhairav Mandir: An ancient shrine dedicated to the fierce form of Lord Shiva, known for its unique architecture.
• Mrityunjay Mahadev Mandir: Dedicated to Lord Shiva as the conqueror of death, its intricate carvings and daily rituals draw devotees seeking blessings for health and longevity.

Varanasi’s Temples aren’t just religious edifices; they are gateways to profound spiritual experiences and connections to India’s cultural heritage. Each Temple holds a unique history, legend, and significance.

Journeying to Varanasi

Reaching Varanasi is a spiritual pilgrimage itself:

• By Air: Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport connects Varanasi to major Indian cities. From the airport, cabs are readily available to reach the city.
• By Train: Varanasi Junction offers rail connectivity to various parts of India, making it a convenient and economical choice.
• By Road: The city is accessible via a well-connected network of highways, with state-run buses, private coaches, or self-driven vehicles as options.

Upon arrival, local transport options such as auto-rickshaws, cycle rickshaws, and taxis are readily available for navigating the city’s labyrinthine lanes and bustling ghats.

A Haven for Every Seeker

Varanasi’s accommodation options span a wide spectrum, catering to diverse needs, from modest lodges to mid-range hotels, dharmashalas, and luxurious establishments. Some even offer proximity to Kashi Vishwanath Temple and Dashashwamedh Ghat. However, due to the city’s labyrinthine lanes, reaching some of these establishments may be a challenge for vehicles with wheels.

The Eternal Essence

In conclusion, Varanasi isn’t just a destination; it’s a journey that touches the soul. It’s a place where time stands still, allowing you to reflect, renew, and rediscover life’s essence. As you immerse yourself in the rituals, conversations, and stories of this sacred city, you’ll discover that Varanasi isn’t bound by its physical boundaries; it’s a state of mind where the tangible world seamlessly merges with the realm of the divine.

Our spiritual sojourn in Varanasi culminated on August 20th, 2023, as we bid farewell, departing via train no. 13006 Dn (Amritsar to Howrah Mail). Despite a brief delay, we returned to Howrah on August 21st, bearing the indelible imprint of Varanasi’s spiritual resonance.

Delve deeper into the tapestry of divine destinations by simply clicking this link, opening the door to a world of spiritual exploration beyond the confines of this post.